Where vintage sewing is for ever
The Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences
You can find everything you need to follow along with the original 1915-1930s Dressmaking and Millinery Courses here.
THE WOMAN'S INSTITUTE COURSEWORK BOOKS
Further down on this page you will find a complete list of the original Dressmaking and Tailoring Course books - these are the books from 1916-1921 that make up the original full course. Those books will have ID numbers such as 1A, 1B etc.
The 1923 course has differently named books with similar content and those ID numbers will be 401, 402, etc. These would have included some of the bound blue books in this set.
Fashion Service Magazine
The Fashion Service magazines were provided first as a quarterly review and later as a monthly magazine that often gave enough information for an experienced home seamstress to create an entire seasonal wardrobe.
Fashion Service even advertised sewing patterns from companies like Pictorial Review, McCall's, and Ladies Home Journal.
Do not let the early simplicity of the cover fool you (they made them more colorful later on). The contents are pure illustrated and meticulously detailed genius.
Inspiration Magazine
Inspiration was the precursor to Fashion Service but with one special note of interest. Inspiration had a section devoted entirely to keeping alumni and current students updated on Institute news. It even provided a service to help fellow students become pen pals! Inspiration became Fashion Service circa 1925.
Woman's Institute Documents and Research
If you're researching the Woman's Institute and want to know more about the history, Mary Brooks Picken, and application process, check out our collection of documents.
Mary Brooks Picken
Read about the woman behind the school that educated hundreds of thousands of dressmakers.
Find out more about the Woman's Institute Staff and contributing authors.
Tools of the Trade
The Picken Square was designed for the purpose of assisting those who sew and draft patterns in laying out drafts for patterns in the quickest possible way. It is similar in appearance to an ordinary L square but it contains different graduations that serve to lighten the labor of the user and keep them from working out fractions in making measurements. In addition, it contains a number of curves, based on the curves of the human form, that will enable anyone to get perfect lines for figures of any shape.
This tool is required to draft most patterns given in the coursework books.
We also now offer a printable copy of the Picken Dressmaker's Gauge!
Original Books
Many collectors like to hunt down original books rather than collect reproductions. We have an entire shop category devoted to helping them complete their collection of originals.
Studying your way through THE original Course
For those who wish to replicate the original Woman's Institute student experience.
If you wish to study your way through the original Woman's Institute Dressmaking and Tailoring Course, you're in the right place!
Below is a complete list of the original 1916-1921 books in the correct order, that a student would have used to progress through their studies.
The list includes links to where you can find both the original books when available, as well as reproductions for sale on our website.
HOWEVER, we highly suggest that you try working from the list we have provided here of the 1922-1928 books, as the list is far more comprehensive and student-freindly than the one below.
If you wish to know all about the original course, we highly recomend that you read one of the following advertising booklets that the Woman's Institute used to advertise the course to students. The books all include a description of each book and advice from Mary Brooks Picken on studying the course.
These booklets were printed from 1916 to circa 1934 and though they vary by name, they all contain the same sales pitch.
What the Woman's Institute Means to Me
Making Beautiful Clothes Circa mid-1920s
Making Beautiful Clothes Circa early 1930s
We also have a collector's checklist for the coursework books and tools available here.
The Complete Dressmaking and Tailoring Course 1916- 1921
Essential Stitches and Seams Parts 1 and 2
This is a digitally-restored and updated version of the first Dressmaking Coursework book Essential Stitches and Seams by the Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences. I have edited and added content, including an introduction and history on the author Mary Brooks Picken and the Woman's Institute.
It includes a copy of The Picken Dressmaker's Gauge tool.
Tissue Paper Patterns Part 1 & 2
It includes illustrated instructions for measuring the female figure, purchasing patterns, using and personalizing sewing patterns. These lessons are applicable to the clothing of any decade but would be very useful for those who collect and use actual vintage sewing patterns.
Pattern Drafting
We offer both the original 1916 book with WWI-era fashions, as well as the 1920s comprehensive volume in pdf and print.
Drafting and Plain Dressmaking in 4 parts
Coming soon!
Corsets and Close-Fitting Patterns
This is a hard-to-find book that gives great instruction for those interested in sewing, buying, wearing and caring for corsets.
The book does not contain actual 'printable" sewing patterns, only instructions and tutorials~ The book is 34 pages of photographs, drawings, instruction and suggestions for choosing the right corset, caring and laundering, and pattern drafting instruction.
Tight linings and Bonings
The book features beautiful illustrations, photos, diagrams, and detailed photographed instructions.
Laces, Silks, and Linens
It includes 56 pages of photographs and suggestions for the sewing, care, identification, and cleaning of all types of lace, silk, and linen fabrics.
Embroidery Stitches Parts 1 and 2
These highly detailed lessons are specifically geared at embroidery on every kind of garment and apply to both vintage sewing, and modern sewing projects.
House Aprons and Caps
Includes 48 pages of detailed pattern drafting and sewing instructions to make several different aprons, house/work dresses, and caps.
Fancy Aprons and Sunbonnets
It includes 62 pages of detailed pattern drafting and sewing instructions to make 16 different aprons and sunbonnets.
Underwear and Lingerie
The Woman's Institute printed several different versions of this set of books as styles changed between 1910s and the 1930s.
We carry both print and PDF of this book, as well as the occasional original.
Harmony of Dress
The 60-page book is a collection of detailed tutorials for every facet of clothing choice imaginable.
It features beautiful illustrations, photos, fabric suggestions, styles for stout figures, etc.
Woolen Materials and Plackets
These lessons are specifically geared at detail-oriented QUALITY sewing techniques and tailoring elements.
Tailored Skirts
The 68-page book is a collection of detailed tailoring tutorials for every facet of skirt-making that you can possibly imagine. It has also been updated to include fashion and sewing pattern illustrations from 1916-1930s original sources.
Patterns for Blouses and Dresses
The 54-page book is a collection of detailed pattern drafting lessons for all kinds of blouses and dresses.
Tailored and Lingerie Blouses
We offer this book in both PDF and print, and often have the original available as well. The reproduction is a 98-page set is a collection of detailed tailoring tutorials for every facet of blouse-making that you can possibly imagine. It has also been updated to include fashion and sewing pattern illustrations from 1916-1920s original sources.
Dresses Parts 1 and 2
The books are 136 pages total of dressmaking instruction from the era's experts at the Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences Dressmaking Department.
Tailored Pockets
The 40-page book is a collection of detailed tailoring tutorials for every kind of pocket and welt imaginable. This is by far one of my all-time favorite Woman's Institute books because the design elements are so clever and varied. Nothing sets a garment apart better than a detailed, creative and well-made pocket.
Tailored Buttonholes and Buttons
The 38-page book is a collection of detailed tailoring tutorials for every kind of buttonhole, button or braid closure there is.
Remodeling and Renovating
The 50-page book is a collection of detailed tutorials for remodeling old clothes into new ones, as well as the care and cleaning of clothing made from several different types of material.
Patterns for Children and Misses' Garments
The 28-page book is a collection of detailed tutorials for drafting patterns for infants, children, and young girls' clothing.
Maternity and Infants' Garments
These highly detailed lessons are specifically geared at making comfortable clothes for expectant and new mothers, and their little ones. The book includes a lot of suggestions and what a complete wardrobe for an expectant mother, and later her child will need for each season and stage of growth.
Children and Misses' Garments
The 70-page book is a collection of detailed tutorials for every facet of garment making and choices for infants, children, and young girls.
Ribbon Trimmings and Flowers
These highly detailed lessons are specifically geared at using ribbon to ornament every kind of garment and apply to both vintage and modern sewing and millinery projects.
Miscellaneous Garments
The 62-page set is a collection of detailed dressing etiquettes, criteria, fabric suggestions, and sewing instructions to make the different kinds of clothing mentioned in the contents. It has also been updated to include fashion and sewing pattern illustrations from 1923-1930s original sources.
Patterns for Coats and Capes
The 40-page book is a collection of detailed pattern drafting lessons for all kinds of coats and capes (and even a few menswear patterns!).
Tailored Suits, Coats, and Capes
The 73-page book is a collection of detailed tailoring tutorials for coats, suits, capes, and wraps from the era's experts at the Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences Dressmaking Department.
Tailored Suits, Coats, and Capes
The 73-page book is a collection of detailed tailoring tutorials for coats, suits, capes, and wraps from the era's experts at the Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences Dressmaking Department.
The Dressmaker and Tailor Shop
The book is 56 pages of shop-running instruction from the era's experts at the Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences Dressmaking Department.
These highly detailed lessons are specifically geared at helping women start and run a successful dressmaking business once they have completed their WOman's Institute Dressmaker coursework.
Large Format Lesson Books from 1924 and later
Drafting and Pattern Designing
Draping and Designing with Scissors and Cloth - 416
Draping and Designing with Scissors and Cloth - 416
This book includes the pattern drafting lessons from several original coursework booklets including but not limited to Pattern Drafting, Corsets and
Close-Fitting Patterns, Underwear and Lingerie, Aprons and Caps, Children’s and Misses’ Garments, Coats and Capes, Miscellaneous Garments, and Designing with Foundation Patterns.
Draping and Designing with Scissors and Cloth - 416
Draping and Designing with Scissors and Cloth - 416
Draping and Designing with Scissors and Cloth - 416
Draping textbooks from any decade are scarce and expensive, and finding one from the 1920s is a true delight. This one features dozens of lessons in draping all kinds of garments and includes negligees, robes, dresses, evening gowns, coats, capes, sleeves, collars, scarves, and wraps.
Designing and Planning Clothes - 415
Draping and Designing with Scissors and Cloth - 416
Designing and Planning Clothes - 415
This book features dozens of lessons in choosing the correct garment style for many different body types.
Contents include Knowledge of Dress Essentials, Designing with Appropriateness, Self Analysis in Dress Planning, Principles of Design, Designing Garments for Yourself, Designing for the full or slender Figure, Color in Clothes Selection, Proper Choice of Fabrics, The Hat as Part of the Costume, The Art of Wearing Clothes, and so much more.
Dress Decoration and Ornament - 417
Dress Decoration and Ornament - 417
Designing and Planning Clothes - 415
This hard-to-find 47-page booklet is full of lovely photographs and drawings as well as detailed instructions for Decorated Fabrics, Applied Decoration and Stitchery, Embroidery, Applique,
Using beads and sequins as dress trimmings, appropriate use of lace
gimps, braids, fringes, passementerie,
ribbons, buttons, buckles, and novelty trimmings, and more!
Ribbon and Fabric Trimmings - 411
Dress Decoration and Ornament - 417
Ribbon and Fabric Trimmings - 411
This 45-page large-format booklet features dozens of lessons in using ribbon and other trims to creatively ornament clothing and other items.
It is full of lovely illustrations as well as detailed instructions and photographed lessons.