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Mrs. Depew Vintage

Mrs. Depew VintageMrs. Depew VintageMrs. Depew Vintage

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bathing costumes vintage sewing pattern description.
The Language of Fashion

B

From babiche to byzantine stitch and everything in between...

babiche. A thong, cord, or thread made of rawhide, gut, etc. The name is derived from a word in one of the many languages/ dialects spoken by Indigenous  American peoples.

baboosh or babouche. A heelless slipper of Turkish origin. 

babushka. Hood tied under the chin. 

baby. In the fur trade, the term is used to describe smaller and usually finer and softer skins of a species, not necessarily referring to the age of animals. 

baby bonnet. Dainty, lacy bonnet, usually beribboned, for infants. 

McCall 5205 Infant's Layette Pattern.

McCall 5205 Infant's Layette Pattern.

baby bunting

Simplicity 1650 Infants Layette Pattern.

At left: Simplicity 1650 Infants Layette Pattern.

baby bunting. A sleeping bag like a large, loose envelope, having an attached hood. Worn by infants, especially outdoors.

baby deer. Rare, short-haired, blue-gray fur of young Alaskan deer. 

baby flannel. Either soft cotton or light wool flannel, suitable for infants. 

baby lace. Any narrow, dainty lace. 

baby Louis heel. Low Louis XV heel. 

Baby pads. Trade name for absorbent paper made in imitation of fabric, for use inside infants' diapers.

baby pin. Miniature bar pin. 

baby ribbon. Extremely narrow pastel or white ribbon. 

baby sash. Ribbon sash tied with bow at back. 

baby skirt. Little, short, plaited or flared skirt. 

Baby Stuart cap. Baby's close-fitting, shirred cap, with narrow chin band. 

back comb. Hair comb worn at back. 

backed. Used of fabric having two-ply or double warp or weft; as, cotton-backed fabric.

back-filled. Used to describe fabric with excessive sizing.

background. 1. That part of fabric, picture, or photograph that forms a setting for the design. 2. Used to describe a dress simple enough to set off decorative accessories.

backing. That which forms the back part; especially, the back structure, consisting of extra warp, weft, or both, in a fabric having more than one kind of warp and weft; also, supporting warp in pile fabric; support for a flimsy fabric.

back-stitch. Hand stitch resembling machine-stitch. 

back-stitch embroidery. Outline embroidery done with back-stitch.

backstrap. 1. Strap at back of handbag for carrying it. Sometimes used as name of bag. 2. Pull strap on shoe or boot.

badger. Coarse, long-haired, durable fur of the badger.

Back-stitching, as illustrated in Essential Stitches and Seams by the Woman's Institute.

Back-stitching, as illustrated in Essential Stitches and Seams by the Woman's Institute.

Bag

A vintage beaded bag.

Left: a vintage beaded bag.

bag. 1. Sack, pouch, or another container of varying shape and size for carrying articles. 2. (Plural) In England, baggy trousers.

bagatelle. A trifle; something of no importance.

baggage. Trunks and heavy luggage of a traveler.

baggy. Bulging; shapeless; hanging without form; as, baggy sleeves or blouse.

bagheera. Fine, uncut pile velvet. 

bag sleeve. Sleeve full at top. 

bague. The French word for a ring.

baguette. Rectangular in shape, as in a baguette diamond. The French word means rod or stick. 

bag wig. Wig having back hair enclosed in bag. 

baize. Coarse, open-weave fabric with a long nap, usually of wool. Dyed in various solid colors. Also spelled baise and bayes.

baju. Short, loose, light jacket. 

Bakelite. Trade name for synthetic composition. Used for buttons, buckles, household accessories; ornaments for apparel accessories.

baku or bakou. Fine, lightweight straw. 

bal. 1. Heavy, ankle-high shoe. Short for Balmoral. 2. The French word for ball or dance.

balandran or balandrana. A wide medieval wrap.

balayeuse. Ruffle sewn inside bottom of woman's skirt to protect it. Same as dust ruffle. French word meaning sweeper.

balbriggan. Cotton fabric having a fine machine-knit surface, often with fleeced back. Used for underwear, hosiery, sweaters, etc. So-called because similar to unbleached hosiery fabric made at Balbriggan, Ireland.

baldric. Belt, band, or sash worn regalia-fashion for decoration or usefulness; formerly to support sword, bugle, etc. Same as BANDOLEER.

baleine. The French word for whalebone.

balerino. Dust ruffle. See BALAYEUSE.

baline. 1. Coarse fabric of cotton or wool. Used in packing. 2. Fabric of hemp or jute. Used for stiffening in upholstery.

Balkan blouse. Blouse gathered into a hip band. 

ball dress, ball gown. An elaborate evening gown worn for formal occasions.


A vintage belt buckle made from a material resembling Bakelite.

A vintage belt buckle made from a material resembling Bakelite.

ballerina/ ballet costume

Fancy dress/ Halloween costume patterns; a Ballet Costume at right in a 1929 McCall Counter Catalog.

Right: A 1929 Ballet Costume fancy dress sewing pattern.

ballerina/ ballet costume. A full, usually short skirt on a basque bodice.

ballet slipper. Light-weight, heelless dancing slipper. 

ballibuntl or ballibuntal or balibuntal. Fine, smooth straw. 

ball park blue. Light violet-blue color. 

balloon sleeve. Very full sleeve, usually in a close-fitting basque. 

balmacaan. Loose, flaring overcoat. 

Balmoral. 1. Striped or figured woolen petticoat, worn as part of costume, with dress looped up to show it. Also, fabric used for petticoat. 2. (Not capitalized) Front-laced shoe, called BAL for short. 3. Scotch cap.

balteus. 1. Girdle worn regalia-fashion by ancient Romans. 2. Girdle worn by ecclesiastics. Also spelled baltheus.

bambin hat. Hat having a halo effect.

ban. Cotton fabric like fine muslin, made in East Indies of fiber from banana leaf stalks.

band. 1. Strip of fabric used to hold, ornament, or complete any part of garment or accessory. 2. (Plural) Two front flaps on the collar worn by ministers. Also called Geneva bands. 3. In the 16th and 17th centuries, wide ornamental collar or ruff. 

bandanna. Large kerchief worn decoratively as neck- or head-piece. Originally, large brightly colored handkerchief with spots or figures made by tie-dyeing. From the Hindu word bandhnu for this method of dyeing.

bandbox. Medium-small, light-weight box, usually round, for hat or other article of apparel. Originally for holding ornamented bands worn in the 16th and 17th centuries.

bande. French word for band.  



bandeau. 1. Narrow brassiere, uplift, or "bra." 2. Strip, usually made of covered buckram or wire, attached to the side or back of hat to adjust the size or fit or to give height. 3. Narrow band or fillet encircling head, as diadem of flowers. 

bandeau top. Slip top made as bandeau.

bandelet or bandelette. Any little band or fillet. 

bandle linen. Homemade Irish linen.

bandoleer or bandolier. Broad band, belt, or scarf worn over one shoulder and under other. Originally worn by soldiers. From the French word bandouliere, meaning shoulder-belt.

bandore. The 18th-century name for a veiled headdress worn by widows.

bandouliere. French word for bandoleer.

band-string. Ribbon, cord, etc., often finished with tassels or decorated with jewels. Used in pairs to tie 16th and 17th-century ruffs or bands.

bang. Front hair cut short and worn down over forehead or curled on top of the head. Colloquially, bangs.

McCall 4980 Bandeau and Step-In sewing pattern.

McCall 4980 Bandeau and Step-In sewing pattern.

bankok

Left: Vogue 4060 dress pattern suggests bartathea for fabric.

bangkok. Fine, lightweight straw used for hats.

bangle. 1. One of the ornamental pendants on a bracelet or necklace. 2. Type of bracelet.

banyan or banian. Loose wrap worn in the 18th century.

bar. 1. To stitch across from one side to the other, or cross threads so made. Used to strengthen, as at the ends of a buttonhole; to trim or finish, as at the end of a seam; to take the place of an eye, as in loop form. 2. Joining thread thrown across an open space in needle-point lace.

barathea. Fine, soft fabric, closely woven in small diaper or bird's-eye design, often with silk warp and worsted filling or cotton warp and silk filling. Used for dresses, and lightweight suits.

barb. Cloth, covering the throat and extending from chin to upper chest; usually part of a headdress. Formerly worn by women mourners and others; now worn by some nuns. Often of plaited linen.

barbe. Small, short lace scarf or lappet. Worn around the head or neck.

barbette. A strip of linen worn under the chin and over the head with a flat coif. Worn in the 13th century.

barcelona. A kerchief of twilled silk in black, solid colors, checks, and fancy designs. Worn around the head or neck, or carried in hand. So-called because they were originally made in Barcelona, Spain.

barefoot sandal. A backless, low-cut shoe.

barège. A sheer, gauze-like fabric of wool combined with silk, cotton, etc. Used for veils, and dresses. So called from Barèges, France, where it was originally made.

bar-fly apparel. Any apparel suitable for wearing at a cocktail bar.

barkcloth or bark cloth. A versatile material that was once common in Asia, Africa, and the Pacific. Barkcloth comes primarily from trees of the family Moraceae, including Broussonetia papyrifera, Artocarpus altilis, Artocarpus tamaran, and Ficus natalensis. It is made by beating sodden strips of the fibrous inner bark of these trees into sheets, which are then finished into a variety of items. Many texts that mention "paper" clothing are actually referring to barkcloth. Some modern cotton-based fabrics are also named "barkcloth" for their resemblance to these traditional fabrics.

barmskin or barmcloth. English terms for leather aprons. So-called from barm, meaning the lap.

baronduki. A common misspelling of burunduki, for burun duchy, plural of the Russian word burunduk, meaning chipmunk.

Baronette satin. The trade name for high-luster rayon fabric.

baroque. 1. Irregularly shaped; especially used in describing pearls. 2. Fantastic in style, grotesque, exaggerated; said of the over-ornate in architecture, furniture, furnishings, dress.

Vintage barkcloth fabric.

Vintage barkcloth fabric.

bar pin

 AN ANTIQUE BAR PIN.

Left: an antique bar pin.

bar pin. An elongated brooch, usually slender.

barracan. A coarse, strong, thick fabric made of wool, silk, and goat's hair. Used in Eastern countries for mantles and other wraps. Also called barragon.

barré. Having stripes, bars, or ribs running crosswise, from selvage to selvage.

barrel heel. A heel of nearly cylindrical shape.

barret. Medieval cap.

barrette. A bar clip for keeping hair in place or for decoration, worn especially by young girls. In colonial days, hair clasps of various metals, often set with pearls, were worn to keep back hair in place.

barrister's wig. A wig of the full-bottomed type worn by English lawyers and judges.

barrow or barrow-coat. A warm swaddling wrap for infants, drawn in at neck and bottom. barry or barrie. An obsolete term for underskirt or petticoat.

barvel or barvell. A large, coarse, leather apron. Worn by workmen and especially fishermen.

bas. The french word for stocking. A ribbed or open-work stocking called bas à cotes or à jour; woolen stocking, bas de laine; and silk stocking, bas de soie.

basané. A French word meaning sunburned, bronzed, or tanned.

Basco. Trade name for the linen-like finish given to cotton damask.

baseball shoe. A shoe worn by baseball players during a game, also known as a Baseball cleat. 

basic color. The color of a basic dress or coat or both, or a suit, which is the principal color of the costume. With it may be worn accessories of one or more colors to give accent and variety.

basic dress. A simple, classic type of dress, accessories for which can be varied. 

basin. The French word for a cotton fabric that resembles dimity.

basinet. Small, shallow, close-fitting helmet with or without visor, often pointed on top, shaped somewhat like a basin.

basket cloth. Fabric in basket weave.

basket filling-stitch. An embroidery stitch worked like darning.

basket-stitch. Embroidery stitch resembling a series of overlapping cross-stitches.

basket weave. Plain weave with two or more yarns used as one. 

basque. Bodice closely fitted by seaming from shoulder to waist, with or without a short skirt-like continuation. Typical of bodice worn by Basque peasants. French word meaning short skirt, as on bodice or jacket; originally on doublets. 

Ladies' Basque sewing pattern Cosmopolitan 1884.

Ladies' Basque sewing pattern Cosmopolitan 1884.

basque beret

A lesson in basting from Essential Stitches and Seams by the Woman's Institute.

Right: A lesson in basting from Essential Stitches and Seams by the Woman's Institute.

Basque beret. Round, flat cap.

basque costume. Same as a ballet costume.

basquine. An ornamental outer petticoat worn by Basque and Spanish peasant women.

bassinet. Wicker basket used as a baby's crib. It has a hoodlike covering over one end, as in cradle or perambulator, and is usually draped with light fabric.

bast. The woody fiber of various plants used in weaving, including flax, ramie, jute, and hemp.

basting. Large, easy stitches that are used to hold fabric in place temporarily.

basting cotton. Cotton thread used for basting.

bat or batt. Woman's heavy, low shoe.

bate. In leather manufacturing, to steep in a bath, as is done with hides.

bateau neck. Boat-shaped neckline, high in front and back, pointed at shoulders. (Also known as a boat neck).

Bath coating. The English name for a lightweight, long-napped woolen fabric. Originally used as coating; now used for infants' blankets, petticoats, etc. Named for Bath, England.

bathing cap. Rubber or waterproof cap.


Depew 1009 Bateau-Neck Blouse Pattern.

Depew 1009 Bateau-Neck Blouse Pattern.

Bathing suit

Bathing costumes as featured in La Mode Nationale July 1897.

Right: Bathing costumes as featured in La Mode Nationale July 1897.

bathing suit. A garment or garments designed for wear in water. Also formerly called a bathing costume.

bathrobe. Full-length coat-like garment. Worn before and after bathing and as a dressing gown.

bath slipper. Slipper or sandal to slip on before and after bathing.

bati. French word meaning basting or tacking.

batik. Method of applying color designs to fabric.  Also, the fabric so decorated.

batiste. 1. Soft, sheer, cotton or linen fabric of plain weave, made in white and delicate colors. Finer weaves used for handkerchiefs, lingerie, dresses, blouses, neckwear, clothing for small children; coarser weaves, for linings. Probably named for its inventor, Jean Baptiste, of Cambrai. 2. Light-weight, all-wool fabric with even warp and weft, thinner than challis, like fine nun's veiling. Called wool batiste, tamise cloth; lightest weight called chiffon batiste. Used for dresses, negligees. 3. Sheer, washable silk fabric, plain or figured, similar to silk mull. Also called batiste de soie. Used for summer dresses, inexpensive dress foundations.

batswing. Soft, napped, woolen, or cotton fabric, usually taupe. Used in England for coats and other garments. Originally, woven in tubular form for seamless petticoats.

Battenberg lace. A coarse form of Renaissance lace.

batting. Cotton or wool in sheets or rolls. Used for warm interlinings, quilts, puffs.

battlemented. Embroidery, applied trimming, cut-out border, etc., giving, with indented lines, effect of battlements on ancient fortresses.

batuz work. Embroidery with attached metal plates. 

batwing sleeve. Long, shaped sleeve.

baudekin or baldachin. A rich fabric of gold warp and silk filling, introduced from East by Crusaders. Often brocaded, embroidered, jeweled. Used first as canopy or drapery for royal throne; later, for garments of nobility. Now, term used for any luxurious fabric with gold threads.

baum marten. Dark brown fur of pine or beech marten. FURS.

bautta. Hooded cloak. 

Bavarian lace. Simple bobbin lace. 

bavette. French word for bib.

bavolet. 1. Rustic French cap. 2. Trimming on the back of a hat or bonnet.

bayadere. Striped crosswise in multicolor design. Also, fabric so striped or stripe of such design. 

bazaar. Market place; group of shops or stalls, also fair, where goods are assembled for sale; especially fancy wares, odd knickknacks, etc.

beach sandal. A sandal for beach wear.

beachwear. All clothes or accessor­ies designed for wear on beach or in water.

bead. Perforated ball or cylinder or another shape, in any size or material, strung on thread or wire, or attached to fabric as a decoration; also, to apply beads, and beading.

beading. 1. Lace-like edging made in loops; also, open-work trim through which ribbon may be pulled. 2. Beads applied as trimming in a pattern or design. Seam Beading: Narrow insertion used to join seams or finish edges. Also called veining and entre-deux.

beading needle. The needle used for beading.

bead work. Beads that are sewn in a design to fabric or leather; the art of sewing beads into a design.

beam. 1. Part of loom consisting of wooden cylinder used for winding warp before weaving. Also, a cylinder for rolling cloth as woven. 2. In the leather trade, a frame or sloping board used for working skins in tanning. Also, to stretch cloth over; to wind yarn on; to dress hides on.

bear. Fur, or pelt, of various types of bear.

bearer. Roll of padding worn to distend skirt (a form of hoop). 

bearskin. 1. Tall, black fur cap. 2. Pelt of a bear. 3. Heavy, shaggy woolen cloth. Used for overcoats.

beau monde. French phrase for the fashionable world; society. Silks Beau Monde was a brand name for a line of silk fabric manufactured by Marshall Field and Co. Also the name of the spice blend that makes my mother-in-law's egg gravy so darn delicious.

Beauvais embroidery. Multicolored embroidery.

beaver. 1. Soft, brown, durable fur of beaver. 2. Man's tall hat. 3. One of various fabrics. 4. Piece of medieval armor attached to helmet or breastplate, protecting lower part of face.

beaver cloth. 1. Soft-finished, thick-napped woolen fabric. Originally made in England to resemble beaver fur.

Used for overcoats and uniforms. 2. Pile fabric similar to hatter's plush. Used for millinery. 3. Heavy, napped cotton cloth. Used for work clothes, athletic clothes.

beaver-dyed cony. Processed rabbit fur.

beaverette. Beaver-dyed cony or rabbit fur.

beaverkin. Small beaver hat.

beaverteen. 1. Twilled cotton cloth with uncut, looped warp threads forming pile. 2. Variety of fustian of coarse twilled cotton, having nap, first dyed, then shorn.

beaver top. Shoe with soft upper.

beck. Pendant tip or lappet on medieval headdress, falling like a beak over the center of the forehead. Worn during the 15th century.

Bedford cord. Sturdy fabric in ribweave, with raised lengthwise cords. May be all wool, silk, cotton, rayon, or a combination of these. Similar in appearance to plain pique, except that pique is usually cotton. First made in America at New Bedford, Massachusetts. Used for dresses, suits, skirts, riding habits, and children's coats.

bedizen. To overdress or dress up in gaudy finery.

McCall Bazar of Fashions sewing pattern advertising store leaflet.

McCall Bazar of Fashions sewing pattern advertising store leaflet.

bed jacket

A 1940s sewing pattern for a bed jacket, which may also be worn as a blouse.

Right: A 1940s sewing pattern for a bed jacket, which may also be worn as a blouse.

bed jacket. Short jacket for wear when sitting up in bed, or for shoulder warmth when sleeping.

bedraggled. soiled, ragged, rumpled, or otherwise untidy.

bedroom slipper. Soft slipper, usually bright in color. 

bed socks. Soft, warm socks; usually ankle-high; often knitted. Worn in bed for warmth in winter.

beefeater's hat. A brimmed hat that is worn as part of the medieval uniform of the British Yeomen of the Guard, often called beefeaters.

bee-gum hat. Man's silk hat.

beer jacket. Straight box jacket. 

beetling. Pounding fabric to give it a flat surface. The process is used on table damask in addition to calendering.

beetroot. The dark red shade of the beet.

beggar's lace. Type of torchon lace.

begird. To bind with a girdle or band.

beige. 1. Pale tan shade, the color of undyed, unbleached yarn. 2. Originally, the fabric of undyed, unbleached wool. French word meaning natural.

bejewel. To ornament or decorate with jewels.

belaced. Edged or decorated with lace.

belcher. Scarf or necktie of garish color. Originally, a blue neckcloth marked with white spots having blue centers. Named for Jim Belcher, the English pugilist.

Belgian lace. An encompassing term for Antwerp, Brussels, Michlin, and Valenciennes laces.

Belgian blue. A shade of blue that was popular in the 1910s, and in 1915 in particular.

bell-bottom.  A style of pants or jeans that flare out from the bottom of the calf and has slightly curved hems. Early versions in the 1960s had a hem circumference of 18 inches (46 cm) at the bottom of each leg opening. In the early 19th century, before standardized uniforms existed in the U.S. Navy, some sailors adopted a style of wide trousers ending in bell-shaped cuffs. This style was also common among European carpenters for centuries, as the shape of the leg prevented sawdust from falling into one's shoes. 

bell-boy or bell-hop cap. Pillbox cap.

bell-boy or bell-hop jacket. Short, fitted jacket.

Bellmanizing. Trade name of the process for treating cotton fabrics to give them a permanent crisp finish without starch or other temporary dressing.

bellows tongue. The wide, folding tongue of blucher or various work shoes and boots, stitched in place at each side to keep the boot or shoe watertight.

bell-shaped hoop. Hoops of graduated sizes fastened one above the other, with the largest at the bottom and the smallest at the top.

bell skirt. Circular-cut, lined skirt.

Simplicity 2644 with lace edging can be considered belaced. Pattern circa 1948.

Simplicity 2644 with lace edging can be considered belaced. Pattern circa 1948.

Bell sleeve

McCall 2033 circa 1921 featuring a bell sleeve. Vintage sewing pattern from the 1920s.

Right: McCall 2033 circa 1921 featuring a bell sleeve.

bell sleeve. A full sleeve, flaring at the bottom. 

belly doublet. Doublet having stuffed or padded front. See Peasecod.

belly shirt.  Another name for the crop top, half shirt, midriff top, or cutoff shirt that exposes the waist, navel, or abdomen. This garment became popular in the 1980s through the early 2000s and is now coming back into vogue as changing mindsets about body image make some more comfortable showing their midriff.


Sources: The Language of Fashion by Mary Brooks Picken, 1939.

Textile Research Center - Leiden.

The Harrison Fisher Book, 1907.  Charles Scribner and Sons.

Essential Stitches and Seams - Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences.

Encyclopédie des Ouvrages de Dames by Thérèse de Dillmont. 


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